floggers

Building A Flogger

January 17, 2021 By Christmas Bunny 4 Comments

When I began building floggers, I didn’t have the benefit of learning from anyone how to do it. I spent time searching out various tutorials, print and video, and got frustrated. What I had in my head wasn’t what I was seeing anywhere. Much like when I cook, I had to take what I saw as the best parts of lots of different recipes, keeping the necessary ingredients while making the taste my own.

Locals in our community have opportunities to craft implements with me on occasion, when I’ve offered a course, complete with leather, tools and guidance. I always promise them their first will turn out light years better than mine did – some goodwill sweatpants cut into strips and glued on a piece of dowel.

How I build

I start by deciding what I want my flogger to feel like (see my prior articles for more information about that). Suffice to say, the amount and texture of the leather I use will depend greatly on what I’ve decided.

Once I’ve decided what the feel should be, I examine my larger piece of leather to determine where the size piece I have chosen will best fit. Sometimes the size of the larger piece will force my hand, if it has limitations.

Once I have cut my piece or pieces away from the larger hide, I often switch my focus to the handle. Braiding works best in multiples of four, so if I’m going to braid the handle I need to find leather scrap long enough to cut into strips that will braid well. If I’m stitching, I measure with a great deal more exactness, cutting a rectangle the precise size I will need to fully cover my handle. Waxed thread works best with leather, though I will occasionally wax my own so I can customize my options a little better.

Handle complete, I create the section of falls. I know some people will use a piece of leather the length of their handle, then split falls off, but I prefer about an inch of overlap from the base of the handle rather than wrapping the full length. I measure twice down the row, marking my future cuts with tailor’s chalk. It turns out chalk works well on most leathers, since it just rubs off easily. I advise students to measure from the same side when they mark, to avoid slanted cuts if the body of their piece is uneven.

Once falls are marked and cut, I use glue on the band of the fall section and wrap it around the base of the handle. For most, upholstery tacks finish that portion. Some may want to upgrade to knotwork over their fall section, but that’s done more easily with a video tutorial. There are some excellent ones on YouTube, though I personally find Viper’s video tutorial to be the best out there. I believe he has them for sale in his etsy shop.

The handle strap is next, and I often cut the strap, end cap circle and covering wrap all at once. Some people think the end strap is for your wrist. I’ll agree to disagree with those folks. I build mine shorter, clearly hanging straps, though I can make them longer for those who request that. This top section can also be covered with knotwork for those who prefer, or finished with tacks as well.

The one thing I emphasize is that the devil is in the details. My wraps start from the same side of the handle. I position hanging loop straps equidistant from what I determine is a centerline on the handle. I make sure diamonds in braided handles line up, and stitching is in a straight line rather than wandering.

When my students finish, I warn them about set times for their glue. Test swings are one thing, but attempting a full scene with an implement whose glue hasn’t finished curing can lead to things shifting or even coming apart. They don’t always listen, but at least I gave them the information.

I believe building implements for one’s own bag is a skill everyone can learn. What I have noticed, however, is that those who spend the time to try it once begin to appreciate the pricing of handcrafted implements a little more. They come to understand the time and effort which goes into the creation of each piece.

Christmas bunny has been exploring kink since she was legal to do so. Her serious writing started in college, where she accidently got some of her papers published in educational journals. She has recently expanded her writing to include her kink journey. She began writing in the physical realm, but shed some of her inhibitions and began sharing those entries with others. She now keeps an active blog of her personal growth and her relationship with her Master / Daddy Dominant and writes helpful educational posts on a variety of subjects.

The Best Impact Implements

November 28, 2020 By Christmas Bunny 3 Comments

sexy Domme with whip — via stock.adobe.com

As a vendor of leather goods, I am often asked many questions. We (collectively) do our best to educate and inform everyone who comes to see us in person, regardless of whether or not they plan to purchase. One of the most common ones I hear: What is the best impact implement?

That’s a tough question on a good day.

I’m a heavy thud gal all the way. One of my absolute favorite implements is one that I built that isn’t for sale – a 36″ bat padded with a special high-density foam and covered with leather. It’s a warm-up and a full scene all in one, no need to change implements. I’m happy as a clam. Want something a little smaller? An elk hide flogger is like a massage in my scene and that works just fine for me. This means that my “best” will often involve soft textures. I also happen to have an eye for high quality implements, so the ones I want will likely cost someone a pretty penny.

Are either of those “the best,” though? Isn’t that subjective? Who am I to say what is your best? I may love thud, but I have many friends and acquaintances who are not fans of thuddy impact at all. Some prefer sting, some love whips, and some have some interestingly specific dislikes of floggers due to the impact of many tails at once.

Unfortunately, given the lack of in-person opportunities we’ve had this year, much of the kink shopping in our local community has transitioned to an online model or local sales chat with contactless pickup. The obvious disadvantage is that as a consumer, we are often unable to fully examine our purchases in advance. Not knowing exactly what an item may feel like can discourage a more expensive purchase. Some have simply opted to avoid new purchases entirely after one experience of disappointment.

Rather than avoiding new purchases, education can provide valuable insight about what we intend to purchase to ensure that we are getting exactly what we think we are ordering. This can be very difficult without hands-on, but I will do my best to provide useful information.

Setting General Expectations and Goals for the Purchase

Are you seeking an implement for a specific body part? Implements designed for genital impact are often smaller and lighter than an implement designed for full-body use. If you purchase one of the smaller ones thinking it is for full-body use, you will likely be disappointed even if the item is of good quality and value for its size.

Do you want the tool to leave marks afterwards? Do you want the tool to not leave marks? Unfortunately for those of us who prefer the thud, objects which provide it will often be less likely to leave mementos. To make that particular quest even more challenging, everyone is a little different. What marks one individual may leave only light traces on another, or may fade by morning. If a Maker is guaranteeing an object will leave marks, be wary. Absolutes are always suspect.

What sensations are you seeking in this implement? Are you looking to obtain something soft that can be used sensually, such as things involving rabbit fur or vegan materials? Are you looking for a specific effect from impact? I tend to prefer breaking down the sting / thud generalization into one that is slightly more descriptive. We categorize things by including a light / heavy descriptor, so we identify them as light sting, heavy sting, light thud, heavy thud, and combination sensations. Therefore, if I am shopping for something I want to be hit with, I am going to avoid things which provide a heavy sting, such as heavier paddles or smaller diameter canes made from harder materials (delrin, acrylic, carbon fiber). Softer textures absorb those inertial effects and create more thud. I’d also avoid things with pointy tips, such as floggers tipped to points, cats with pointed tips, dragon tails, etc. Rounded tipped floggers are more my cup of tea, and I will avoid leathers with shinier / smoother finish. Those finishes will generally come across as stingy. I know that is a bit sad for us thud fans, since those pretty finishes may be metallic or patterned and promise lots of sad later.

Matching Expectation to Reality

Knowledge and information are your friends. Learn about the ranges of sensation available in an implement. Floggers tend to be thought of as thuddy in general, though a skilled Maker can build one in any of the sensation ranges I mentioned earlier. Smooth topgrain leather plus thinner falls (3/8″ for example) plus pointed or snake tips equals a stingy flogger that will welt as easily as a more solid cane. An elk hide flogger that has wider falls (5/8″, 3/4″ or wider), a naked topgrain finish, and is finished with rounded tips is going to produce a softer thud. Thus unsurprisingly, heavier, thicker leathers with similar treatments will begin to create heavier thud sensations. Length definitely matters in an impact implement. Longer flogger falls require a harder swing to keep the falls from separating prior to impact, thus transfer more force through the blow. Want one that is less likely to wrap at lower speeds? Look for shorter lengths, such as 15″ falls. Avoid lengths of more than 20″, since those will require more force.

Keep in mind that softer textures and impact surfaces generally produce thud – leather paddle, floggers with lots of falls, rounded edges made of softer more flexible topgrain leathers or of full or split suede. Harder surfaces and textures generally produce sting – canes, dragon tails, smooth paddles made of wood or acrylic, floggers with firmer, stiffer leather or smooth finished topgrain and pointed tips.

Before you buy!

You can learn a great deal about an item from its description. Is the description lacking? The person selling it may be a reseller rather than a Maker. Don’t be afraid to reach out and ask questions. If someone can’t or won’t answer, they may not be the right seller for you. If a flogger description indicates that it is 20″ in length, is that 20″ of total length or 20″ of falls? How long is the handle, how wide are the falls and how many does it have? What type of leather is it made from? Do they list the thickness (or weight) of the leather? Do they mention what type of sensation you may experience from the item? Details are your friend. One measurement and the word “soft” in a description which comes in at one sentence long is personally not enough information for me to give informed consent to an item hitting my ass.

Look for key words. Do they advertise “Genuine Leather”? This is often a term used for leather that is made of scrap which is ground and pressed together. It is still technically leather just as plywood is still wood, it is simply a lower quality option. Look for words such as: split suede – which indicates the bottom layers of hide have been split off; topgrain – which indicates the top layer and will have some type of finish, such as naked (super soft), pebble (textured but flexible); fullgrain – both topgrain and suede split leathers still combined, often thicker than either individually (still variances between animal types); corrected grain – topgrain has had the imperfections sanded off and then has been stamped with a topgrain finish, leaving a less expensive and slightly lower quality product, etc. If you don’t recognize a term, this is a good time to either run a quick google search or reach out to the seller and inquire. When purchasing wooden items, such as paddles, look for the type of wood. You don’t want thinner impact items made from softer woods, like pine or poplar. Hardwoods such as oak, maple, purple heart, and exotics are less likely to break and potentially splinter and cause some unpleasantness for the person receiving impact. The janka hardness scale can be a useful tool. Look for things with a hardness over a thousand, as a general rule.

Is it Artisan made? Is it mass-produced and available for resale on etsy for $20? A $20 flogger may well be worth what is being asked for it, but is much less likely to be tailored for a specific sensation preference, and likely to be made with lower quality materials and workmanship. I tend to advocate purchasing from a builder who is local, or if a local seller is unavailable in your area, from one who handcrafts their implements . Even then, however, levels of skill and workmanship will still vary greatly between craftsmen. If someone has a clear and reasonable understanding of the value of their work, and it is structurally sound, purchasing from them can be a viable option for those looking for implements in lower price ranges rather than from someone whose work may have more flourish and skill but be that much more expensive as a result.

The next thing to look at is workmanship. If the item features a braided handle, is the pattern lined up down the handle? If it has “knotwork,” do all of the parts of the knot seem to be symmetrical? If it has tacks, rivets, or other visible evidence of fastenings, are they lined up in straight lines or is the spacing even? Are they lined up with other parts of the item? Does the hardware appear solid and of good quality? Are edges finished, such as rounding edges on a paddle or burnishing leather edges on a belt, cuffs or a collar? Does stitching appear even?

Do keep in mind that these details do not necessarily indicate a product which is not worth what is being asked for it, or that the item won’t last. Most of those things are cosmetic, though some may be structural. If a paddle has been cut so that the wood grain traverses the handle portion in a perpendicular fashion, this is less stable in a more intense scene than one which has been cut so that the wood grain runs lengthwise down the paddle. If you see spots that appear to be blemishes, do not be afraid to ask for an up-close photo. Most Makers are willing to provide more information and responsible ones are less likely to be willing to sell an item which appears to have questionable structural integrity.

Read reviews of the item if it is one that is available in a standard option, and of the seller prior to purchase. Do reviews indicate that buyers generally received what they expected? Do reviews indicate that the photo was a stock one and the actual item varied greatly in quality?

Look at the photos. Are there close-up photos as well as distance pictures? Is there anything that looks iffy? If you are uncertain, it doesn’t hurt to ask someone who has more experience than you do.

Shop around. Finding a flogger marked at $35 is great, until you look closer and see that it has 10 falls that are each 1/2″ wide (likely that won’t be listed in the description). My super awesome maths skill tells me that’s 5 total inches of leather. If I can buy a different flogger for $45 that clearly lists that it offers 40 falls that are each 1/2″ wide, that’s a much better deal for the price even thought one is more expensive. If you factor in the workmanship and shipping, one may end up being a clear winner when it comes to a long-term investment.

Price point alone does not indicate whether or not a tool is appropriate for you. Not all vendors have a good understanding of how to price their items according to their skill level, labor time and effort, and material costs. This can mean pricing for a given item may range as much as $50 between the low and high end, and the pricing may still seem unevenly distributed across the quality of implements offered at those prices. It may also mean that the same $80 price tag can include a huge variety of offerings when it comes to amount of material, quality of material, and workmanship. Purchasing a less expensive item from a less skilled Maker can absolutely be a viable option as long as it meets your expectations and usage needs for the tool.

Floggers and Christmas

December 2, 2018 By Christmas Bunny 2 Comments

Last Christmas I thought I’d be adorable and get Daddy some presents we opened in private (*wink, wink*). These included a leather strap and, so romantically, a wooden paddle laser etched with the word MINE.

I hadn’t had any experience with paddles prior to that, but their description said “thuddy,” and since I like thuddy, I was on board! He loved the thought I’d put into it, and the first time we used it, we were both excited. After a nice warm-up, he gave me a good tap with it, not even using his full strength.

I was instantly in tears.

That was not quite how I envisioned that experience going. It didn’t get any better the other times he has used it. Pro: he knows what I don’t like. Cons: my thoughtful and beautiful Christmas present became a funny what-not-to-buy story, and he holds the power to bring me to uncontrolable tears at any time.

I realized that I was either going to need to learn some things about imact implements or stop buying Daddy presents of that nature. I chose learning. That’s part of what led me to begin making my own toys.

I ended up in the leather section of a craft store to find a rivet to fix a purse strap the night before vacation and suddenly realized I wanted to play with leather. I wanted the scent in my nostrils, the texture under my fingers. I wanted to create impact implements that suited exactly what I wanted, and I needed to study a lot before I could get there.

I began experimenting in cloth. Goodwill has an excellent selection, perfect for my purposes and much cheaper than a fabric store. After some heavy reading and trial and error, I had a prototype. I found scrap leather to make a second, blended with cloth.

I learned a lot with those first attempts, but the real learning began when I took my creating to leather. There are so many ways to get what you want out of a flogger, and until I began experimenting, I had no idea.

The first time I walked into a leather wholesale store, I was hooked. The scent of the leather surrounding me always brings me to a halt. Inhaling deeply, I can let that scent bring a swirl of memories of motorcycles and men I’ve loved – fathers, friends, lovers. The learning and experimenting only srves to enrich my experiences with leather. I have had to learn how changing textures, lengths, edges and adornments can change the way each flogger impacts.

Weight of material: rabbit fur is lighter than pigskin which is lighter than deerskin which is lighter than cow skin. The weight of the skin is part of what determines how thuddy an implement will be. Of course, floggers can be made of plenty of other materials besides leather, or by combining things with leather. The weight can be negated by other elements, such as how the skin was prepared. Suede gives more thud than veg-tanned skin, which ends up more slappy even at the same weight.

Number of falls: a high number of falls will increase the weight that is descending, creating a heavier thud sensation. Similarly, fewer falls will often result in more sting, though that can change based on any specialized fall treatment, or the length.

Length of falls: this is simple physics. Shorter falls will have less impact because their momentum is less. Longer falls will build up more speed and thus have greater impact. However, it is important to remember that while showy, falls that are too long for the height of the wielder (I personally don’t recommend longer than arms length) can become cumbersome during longer sessions.

Shape of fall tips: the standard shape is a straight cut across the material. That shape tends to thud, which can be combined with the above elements to either bring contrast to stingier features or enhance existing thud. For a more gentle thud, you’re going to want rounded tips instead of flat ones. To create sting at the tip ends, a diagonal slice at the end will do. To really amp that up, double tipping the ends adds to the sting factor.

Additions and raised edges: some floggers may come with braided or twisted falls. By compacting the leather that way they can make a thuddy flogger land even more solidly, but the raised edges bring focus to the inertia and add sting in those sections. The more raised sections which are created in this way, the more sting it will provide when it lands.

Some of these things can be done to a plain flogger sitting in your drawer. If you desire to customize, adding braids or twists will change your flogger. Of course, once you cut into it, there’s no going back, so make sure it is what you want. You can also cut your tips at home, as flat tips are the most common ones. While I recommend a rotary cutter or exacto knife, tip trimming can be accomplished with just a pair of scissors and a decent ruler.

If you’re picking out a flogger for your partner to use on you, oh, say for Christmas, and you hate sting, perhaps that cute flogger with very thin falls and pointed tips isn’t a smart purchase, particularly if it has enough heft to it to really bite. If your partner is anything like mine, you’re going to have a regret story about that present, once you can laugh about it!

About the Author

Buying guide – Floggers

October 22, 2016 By Desdemona 3 Comments

Floggers! The quintessential impact implement, and icon of BDSM. Easy to learn, yet difficult to master – these are typically one of the first items added to anyone’s BDSM toy-box.

Floggers are incredibly versatile. Thuddy, sting-y, caressing, ouchy, jarring, meditative or subspace-inducing. The sensations that can be produced can vary widely and wildly, depending on a range of factors: the weight and material of the flogger, how forcefully it is used, the style in which is used, where on the body it lands. Great for beginners, but also potentially challenging enough to keep both givers and receivers interested for many years.

There are so many floggers and flogger-makers now, from big producers to boutique crafts-people. It took us quite some time to investigate and compile our recommendations. What we found is a huge range of both quality and price – sometimes correlated but not always. Enjoy, and happy flogging!

Suede Flogger Red/Black by EgoDriven	★★★★★	$$$$$
Total Length: 28 inches		Material: Suede
Let's start with a classic. This is a good quality mid-sized flogger at a very reasonable price. The falls are a soft suede that is on the gentler side but can still produce sharp sensations with the right swing. Good for beginners and lighter intermediate play.
Go to web site ►

Lime Suede Classic Flogger by 6Whips	★★★★★	$$$$$
Length: 24 inches	Material: Suede
This is a very high quality flogger - handmade to order and finely detailed. It comes in a variety of colors - but we love the lime one because it's so distinctive. This could definitely be your go-to flogger for many years, and if you get two which match in size and material, would be perfect for florentine.
Go to web site ►

The Motivator by Stockroom	★★★★★	$$$$$
Length: 30 inches	Material: Leather
This is a big one! You can (and may well need to) use this one two-handed, and you'll produce some powerful thuddy thwacks with this guy. Great intimidation factor with the intricate metal handle, and you'll also get some great sound effects from it - both the sound of the impact and the moans it elicits. Very high quality, and a fairly high price point.
Go to web site ►

Black & Red Braided Flogger by Sade Fantasy

Black & Red Braided Flogger by Sade Fantasy	★★★★★	$$$$$
Length: 24 inches	Material: Leather
Top quality craftsmanship. The tails are leather, and they braided along their length. This adds significant weight and texture, and combined with the dragons-tail shaped tips means that this will produce as intense a sensation as you can get in a flogger. For those who crave more, this is it.
Go to web site ►

Lingam Glass Dildo Flogger by Extreme Restraints

Lingam Glass Dildo Flogger by Extreme Restraints	★★★★★	$$$$$
Length: 26 inches	Material: Leather
This is a decent flogger. But it's the handle that really sets it apart. It doubles as an insertable, and is made of glass so can heated or cooled beforehand for intense sensation play. To top it off, it can double as a pony tail if inserted in the butt. Given all this, maybe it doesn't belong in the flogger section... but it had to go somewhere!
Go to web site ►

Gunmetal Chain Flogger by Extreme Restraints

Gunmetal Chain Flogger by Extreme Restraints	★★★★★	$$$$$
Length: 20 inches	Material: Metal
This one is quite different in that the falls are made of metal chain! It's smooth so there is not a risk of cutting the skin. A very different sensation from this - certainly heavier and more intense. But it can also be sensual in its own way, when draped or teased along the skin. The metal provides a lot of possibilities for adding temperature play to the experience.
Go to web site ►

Pink Unicorn Flogger by Agonai	★★★★★	$$$$$
Length: 26.5 inches	Material: Vegan leather
A wonderful flogger. The added metal spikes (unicorn horns?) change the feeling of this quite dramatically. It's vegan leather so no animals were harmed in the making. And with the bright pink color, what more could anyone want in a flogger?
Go to web site ►

Nylon Rope Flogger by Ravenhawk	★★★★★	$$$$$
Length: 20 inches	Material: Nylon
The nylon falls produce a more sting-y sensation at high speed. It's nice and compact - perhaps even small enough to use as a pussy flogger? Or indeed, a CBT flogger.
Go to web site ►

Tips for floggers:

Some quick flogger anatomy: the swishy bits at the end are known as the falls or tails. The bit you hold is the handle. Some (but not all) have a loop attached to the handle which you can put your wrist through to make sure it doesn’t go flying – or to use to hang it from when storing.
The lengths stated in our reviews are the total length of the handle and falls, but exclude the extra loop attached to the handle (if any).
A good flogger should be balanced, and the falls should generally swing together. It’s not ideal a few falls go off rogue in different directions than the rest once you start swinging, because it means you might hit bits you don’t intend to.
There is more than one ways to swing a flogger. Many people favor a classic “figure 8” in which you only strike during the downward strokes. But you can of course reverse this and strike with the upward stroke. You can also swish it side to side, or even flick it at the target.
Try to avoid “wrapping” which is when you the tips of the flogger go beyond the intended point of contact, and wrap around to placed that don’t feel great – like bony bits or over internal organs.
Florentine – once you get comfortable with a flogger, you will no doubt want to learn florentine, which is a pattern of using two floggers simultaneously in which they interweave each other. For this to work well, you generally need to have two floggers which are identical in size and weight.

All buying guide products are reviewed based on the unbiased opinions of our contributors. After reviews are written, vendors may sponsor reviews to promote or extend their placement on the buying guide. For more information or to suggest a product to be included, please contact us.

Oh, the things one sees at DomCon!!!!

May 30, 2016 By anniebear 4 Comments

For any of our regular readers, you know we recently attended DomCon in Los Angeles. This is the largest lifestyle and professional BDSM event in the Los Angeles area and it is highly anticipated by all! Kink Weekly was in the house talking about our magazine and also meeting some of our readers, which was extremely rewarding!

We had some fun stickers to hand out and I snapped a few pictures with some of my BDSM idols. I think I really managed to play it cool…kind of.

Swooning over Goddess Fae from San Diego.

Our friend Ken Marcus was on the scene snapping pics.

I was only able to make it to one class, Victorian Style Birching, as I was manning (womanning?) the Kink Weekly booth and boy was it a good one! I’ll talk about it later in this article. I also had a chance to walk around the vendor floor and check out some of the crazy inventions that people come up with. The sky is the limit and I’ll never stop being amazed by the devious and cunning minds of these kinky crafters. My partner Dexx was in his element as he fancies himself a kinky inventor of torture devices, some of which have been featured in past Kink Weekly shoots.

I wanted to share some of my finds with those who were not able to attend. Perhaps you’ve seen some of these items before? Or maybe you’re one of these inventors; to you I say well done, Sir or Madam!

A makeshift butt plug holder-Orchid and Serpent

This one was a bit tongue in cheek. Orchid and Serpent scored the mother of all butt plug holders (does anyone out there have enough butt plugs to even warrant a butt plug holder?) with this discarded child’s toy turned amazing use of up cycling! Yes, that is a Barbie Doll game. Yes, those are all butt plugs inserted into each hole of the Barbie Doll game. The story goes that one of the owners of Orchid and Serpent spotted this toy at a garage sale and as the kink minded are often known to do, a “pervertable” was found! Some may think it’s inappropriate (but we don’t hang out with those people) I call it genius!

Double Flogger-Ravynblood Leather

Master Gabriel, the mastermind behind this piece has finally outdone himself. You may know him as the maker of the Composition Book paddle and also having a penchant for making his submissives kneel on Legos. This double flogger provides double the impact. Just when you think the flogger strike is going to end, it is quickly followed by another one all in one motion. His household members at the booth were kind enough to give a demo. This toy is used with a rotating motion of the wrist that is actually quite easy to master. I was also impressed that the flogger falls did not tangle amongst themselves. It was one smooth double whammy!

Vajankle-Orpheus Black

While Orpheus is typically a seller of knives for edge play, I was delighted to see this item at his booth this year. You read correctly; it’s an ankle and a vagina so a vajankle! When I was told the name of this specific toy, I cried with laughter. However, someone is into this particular kink and that’s ok! The feet are sold as a set with the second one just being a fake foot, sans the vagina. I’m also happy to report that on the third and final day of DomCon, the vajankle had been purchased by a lucky attendee.

Bugs!-I did not get this vendor’s name! If anyone knows please let me know in the comments!

This booth was full of creepy crawlies, but luckily they were all diseased or I would have been out of there…or maybe burn the place down. Check out those spiders and bats! They were all encased in solid glass which would make for a great conversation piece. But now that I’m thinking about it, they would also be good for the sadist because if my Dom stuck one of those on my face I don’t think I would be pleased!

A double leather hood-Edgeplay Gear

Just in case you need a hood in side a hood, Edgeplay Gear has you covered (no pun intended). I think this hood is for those huge leather enthusiasts mixed with a bit of asphyxiation. You can over your sub’s head and then zip them up inside the dual masking feature. Tighten the collar for added terror! It reminds me a bit of Texas Chainsaw Massacre with “Leather Face!

Big ass floggers-Tawan Leather

Check out the size of this bad boy! By Tawan Leather, hailing from Las Vegas.

Never in my life have I seen a flogger of this magnitude. Even the largest Fox Flogger I experienced in New Zealand could compare. It reminded me of a witch’s broom, except it packs a much bigger punch. Getting hit with this bad boy was akin to getting kicked in the butt, hard! I had to make sure I was stabilized enough to sustain the impact. Our booth was across from Tawan’s and we got to watch people getting walloped all weekend long! Hilarious!

I was pretty nervous but took it like a champ!

“The Mistress Molly 3 Loop Extreme” made by Caniac.com and Miss Molly

Apparently this is not for the faint of heart.

I’ve seen a lot of impact toys, but nothing quite like this. There was quite a bit of weight to this piece, making it super effective. Miss Molly from New Hampshire nicknames this one “her baby” as she spent significant time crafting the design and layout. She says, “It’s all hand made by a wonderful married couple from Massachusetts and comes with a lifetime warranty. I worked with Caniac to develop the “The Mistress Molly Red Line Extreme” toys, which as the name indicates are their most severe implements they make. Not for your beginner spanko!” You’ll receive no complaints from me! She was also accepting donations for Alhpa Dog Rescue and portions of her proceeds also go to that rescue group; anything that helps animals is aces in my book!

Scary repurposed metal stuff-Industrial Dis-ease

Despite their size, these packed a lot of weight behind them.

There must not be much to do in Wisconsin or else these guys are just really clever. They have a whole stock of stuff that looks like you could beat the shit out of someone (consensually of course), barely have to exact any effort, and leave wicked marks. All of their products are made from pipe, chain, and anything else metal. Their floggers were pieces of pipe with ball chains attached yet they still looked elegant and well crafted. These weren’t the dinky chains that come with necklaces-this was heavy duty, watch your ass kind of stuff. I was also presented with a demo of the light saber cane! It has interchangeable color tubes so you can be a Jedi one day or a member of the Imperial Force another. Definitely toys for the sadistic!

Spiked tray and wooden stocks-Torrid Timber

Chris of Torrid Timber has beautiful, handmade items ranging from paddles to spiked coasters. But by far the most impressive piece were his slave stocks. Need something to completely immobilize your slave? Stick them in some stocks with ankle cuffs and chains and they won’t go anywhere! This elegantly designed, modern piece has an easy to use locking mechanism that is cleverly out of reach from the subject wearing the stocks. He was also sporting a tray with a removable bottom to allow the subject carrying or holding it to feel tiny little spikes. It’s genius design offers minimal effort if say your submissive is a human table with the tray on their back. Just keep adding items on the tray to increase the level of discomfort. We can’t wait to see what he comes up with next!

Birch Rod-Birchen Boutique

As I mentioned I was only able to attend one class; Victorian Style Birching or as the instructor Daddy Johnny likes to point out, a class on sticks. But do not be deceived! This implement is one of the most punishing a bottom can ever experience! It’s basically a bundle of sticks, often treated in a saltwater brine tied or taped together. Then the Dominant takes them and wallops the submissive as many times as they can stomach. It is not for the faint of heart or light bottomed. Twigs fly everywhere and it often opens up the flesh in tiny (or not so tiny) micro cuts. A shower is recommended after to get all of the stick particles out of the cuts or you can elongate the subs punishment by holding off on the shower for a little while. Daddy Johnny delivered an extensive and fascinating history on birching followed by multiple live demos from himself and Sir Valentino. At the end of the class, you even got to make your own birch rod. Birchen Boutique also has the more historical version of the stocks, made with intricate and beautiful designs. One of the demo bottoms was also sporting the “shrew’s fiddle,” a parallel version of stocks. I give major accolades to the demo bottoms in this class, as it was not an easy one.

I’m sure there are many more crazy inventions where these came from. Kinksters are known to be creative and this only further proves this theory. What kind of things have you all seen? Any off the wall toys or equipment? We’d love to hear about it in the comments!

floggers

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